Christopher Cat's Pie-Shop

The story of the Kit-Cat Club begins, improbably, with a mutton pie. In the last years of the seventeenth century, a pastry cook named Christopher Cat — or Catling, as some sources have it — kept a pie-shop near the foot of Highgate Hill, where the road from London began its steep ascent to the village on the ridge. Cat's pies were famous — his mutton pies, in particular, were celebrated as the finest in north London — and his shop became a gathering place for the local gentry and the travellers who stopped for refreshment before tackling the hill. Among Cat's regular customers were several men of literary ambition and Whig political sympathies, and it was in the back room of his pie-shop, over plates of mutton pie and glasses of wine, that the most influential club of the Augustan age was born.

The precise location of Cat's pie-shop has been the subject of scholarly debate for centuries, with various authorities placing it at different points along the road between Holborn and Highgate. The most convincing tradition locates it on or near Gray's Inn Lane, at the foot of the road that led northward through the fields to Highgate, though some accounts place the meetings closer to the village itself. The ambiguity is characteristic of the Kit-Cat Club's early history, which was conducted with a deliberate informality that left few records and many questions. The club had no constitution, no minutes, and no membership list in its earliest years — it was simply a group of like-minded men who gathered regularly at a pie-shop to eat, drink, and discuss the politics and literature of the day. That this casual arrangement would evolve into the most powerful political club in England was as unlikely as it was consequential.

The name of the club derived from the name of the pie-maker — Kit-Cat being a familiar contraction of Christopher Catling — and this humble etymology tells us something important about the club's character. The Kit-Cat Club was not, in its origins, an aristocratic institution but a gathering of middle-class professionals — lawyers, publishers, and writers — who found in Cat's pie-shop a congenial setting for conversation and companionship. The aristocrats and grandees who would later join the club, transforming it from a literary supper society into a political powerhouse, came after the club's character and reputation were already established. The Kit-Cat Club was, at its core, a meritocratic institution — a place where talent and wit counted for more than birth and fortune, and where the pastry cook's pies were as important to the proceedings as the wine from the duke's cellar.

The Members: Poets, Playwrights, and Politicians

The membership of the Kit-Cat Club reads like a roll call of the most significant figures in early eighteenth-century English culture and politics. Among the literary members were Joseph Addison, whose essays in The Spectator would define the style and values of the English middle class for generations; Richard Steele, Addison's friend and collaborator, whose plays and periodical writings helped to create the culture of polite sociability that the Kit-Cat Club itself embodied; William Congreve, the greatest comic dramatist of the Restoration stage, whose wit was as celebrated at the supper table as it was in the theatre; and John Vanbrugh, the architect and playwright whose designs for Castle Howard and Blenheim Palace would transform the English country house. These men were not merely members of the club; they were its animating spirits, the writers and thinkers whose conversation gave the Kit-Cat evenings their intellectual distinction.

The political members were equally formidable. The Kit-Cat Club included some of the most powerful Whig politicians of the age — men like the Duke of Somerset, the Duke of Devonshire, the Earl of Halifax, and Robert Walpole, who would later become Britain's first Prime Minister. These were not men who needed a pie-shop supper club for their social lives; they had country houses, London mansions, and the full apparatus of aristocratic entertainment at their disposal. What the Kit-Cat Club offered them was something different — a place where political strategy could be discussed informally, away from the public scrutiny of Parliament and the court, and where the alliance between Whig politicians and Whig writers could be cemented over good food and good conversation. The club was, in effect, a coalition — an alliance of political power and cultural authority that gave the Whig cause a coherence and a sophistication that its Tory opponents could not match.

The membership also included the publisher Jacob Tonson, who is often credited as the club's founder or, at the very least, its organiser and impresario. Tonson was the most successful publisher of the age, the owner of the copyright to Milton's Paradise Lost and the publisher of Dryden, Pope, and virtually every other significant English writer of the period. His commercial interests gave him a powerful incentive to cultivate relationships with both the political establishment — which controlled the licensing of the press — and the literary world — which produced the books he sold. The Kit-Cat Club served Tonson's purposes perfectly, providing a regular forum where his political and literary contacts could meet, exchange ideas, and develop the mutual interests that sustained his business. Tonson's role as organiser ensured that the club's meetings were well provisioned and efficiently run, and his publishing connections meant that the proceedings of the Kit-Cat suppers — the toasts, the verses, the epigrams — found their way into print and into the public consciousness with gratifying speed.

The Highgate Area Connection

The Kit-Cat Club's connection to the Highgate area is more than a matter of geography, though geography is where it begins. The road from London to Highgate was one of the most important routes in seventeenth-century England — the beginning of the Great North Road that led to York, Edinburgh, and the distant cities of the north. Travellers heading north from London would pass through the districts where Christopher Cat kept his pie-shop, and many would break their journey at the foot of the hill before tackling the steep climb to the toll gate at the summit. The inns and taverns that lined this route were natural gathering places, and the Kit-Cat Club's choice of Cat's pie-shop as its meeting place reflects the sociability of the road rather than any particular association with Highgate itself.

But the connection runs deeper than the accident of a roadside pie-shop. Several of the Kit-Cat Club's members had direct connections to Highgate and the surrounding area. The great houses of the Northern Heights — in Highgate, Hampstead, and the villages that dotted the ridge — were popular retreats for the wealthy Londoners who made up the club's membership, and the summer meetings of the Kit-Cat Club were sometimes held at the country houses of members in the area rather than at the pie-shop in town. The tradition of taking the Kit-Cat supper outdoors, in the gardens of a member's villa, was established early in the club's history, and the pleasant countryside around Highgate — still largely rural in the early eighteenth century — provided an ideal setting for these al fresco gatherings. The combination of proximity to London and rural tranquillity that has attracted residents to Highgate for centuries was already drawing the Kit-Cat members northward in the reign of Queen Anne.

The Upper Flask tavern on Hampstead Heath, which served as a meeting place for the Kit-Cat Club during the summer months, demonstrates the club's association with the Northern Heights. The Flask was a popular destination for Londoners seeking fresh air and country pleasures, and its proximity to the Highgate area — the two villages were connected by paths across the Heath — meant that Kit-Cat members could combine a club meeting with a day's excursion to the hilltop. The geographical relationship between the Kit-Cat Club and the Highgate area is therefore one of landscape as much as location — the club was drawn to the northern heights by the same qualities of elevation, greenery, and distance from the city that have drawn residents and visitors for centuries. The mutton pies may have provided the initial attraction, but the landscape kept the club coming back.

Political Influence and the Whig Cause

The Kit-Cat Club's political significance can hardly be overstated. In an era when political parties were still embryonic institutions, lacking the formal structures of organisation and discipline that would develop in later centuries, the club served as an informal party headquarters for the Whig cause. The great political questions of the age — the succession to the throne, the prosecution of the war against France, the relationship between Parliament and the Crown — were debated at the Kit-Cat suppers with an intensity and a frankness that would not have been possible in more public settings. The club's members included not only the leading Whig politicians but also the propagandists and publicists — the writers, publishers, and pamphleteers — who shaped public opinion in an age of expanding literacy and fierce political debate. The Kit-Cat Club was, in effect, a political communications operation, linking the decision-makers with the opinion-formers in a network that was all the more effective for being informal and convivial.

The club's most significant political achievement was its role in securing the Protestant succession — the transfer of the Crown from the Stuart dynasty to the House of Hanover after the death of Queen Anne in 1714. The Whig members of the Kit-Cat Club were united in their determination to prevent a Catholic restoration, and the club served as a planning centre for the political manoeuvres that ensured the smooth accession of George I. The relationships that had been built over mutton pies and claret proved their worth in the crisis of 1714, when the speed and coordination of the Whig response to Anne's death forestalled any attempt by the Jacobite faction to place the Stuart Pretender on the throne. The Kit-Cat Club did not, of course, act alone — the Protestant succession was secured by the efforts of many individuals and institutions — but the club's contribution to the coordination of the Whig campaign was substantial, and its members were richly rewarded by the new Hanoverian regime.

The political influence of the Kit-Cat Club extended beyond the immediate crisis of the succession to shape the broader character of British governance in the eighteenth century. The club's commitment to constitutional monarchy, religious toleration, and the rights of Parliament — the core principles of the Whig settlement — provided the ideological framework for the era of stability and prosperity that followed the accession of the Hanoverians. The Kit-Cat members who went on to serve in government under George I and George II — Walpole, Stanhope, Townshend — carried with them the habits of mind and the networks of friendship that had been formed at the club's suppers, and the political culture they created bore the stamp of the Kit-Cat Club's distinctive blend of intellectual sophistication and practical cunning. The pie-shop near Highgate had given birth to a governing philosophy that would shape British politics for a century.

The Kneller Portraits

The most tangible legacy of the Kit-Cat Club is the remarkable series of portraits painted by Sir Godfrey Kneller, the leading portrait painter of the age, who was himself a member of the club. Between about 1697 and 1721, Kneller painted the portraits of forty-two Kit-Cat members in a uniform format — a canvas measuring thirty-six by twenty-eight inches, a size that became known as "kit-cat" in honour of the series. The portraits were commissioned by Jacob Tonson, who displayed them in his house and who bequeathed them to his descendants, from whom they eventually passed to the National Portrait Gallery. The Kneller Kit-Cat portraits are one of the great achievements of English portraiture — a collective record of the men who shaped the politics and culture of Augustan Britain, captured with a directness and an informality that reflects the character of the club itself.

The "kit-cat" format that Kneller developed for the series was itself an innovation. The standard portrait sizes of the period — full-length, three-quarter, and head-and-shoulders — were all ill suited to the intimate scale that Tonson wanted for his collection. The kit-cat format, which showed the sitter from the waist up with one or both hands visible, struck a balance between formality and intimacy that was perfectly calibrated to the club's self-image. The sitters were shown without the trappings of rank — no ermine, no armour, no ceremonial regalia — and the emphasis was on their faces, their expressions, and the gestures of their hands, which Kneller used to convey character with remarkable subtlety. The result is a gallery of individuals rather than a gallery of types — each portrait captures a distinct personality, a particular intelligence, a specific quality of mind that the viewer can read and respond to centuries after the sitter's death.

The Kneller portraits now hang in the National Portrait Gallery, where they form one of the most popular and admired collections in the museum. Their survival is a matter of considerable good fortune — the paintings were nearly lost on several occasions, through fire, flood, and the vicissitudes of inheritance, and their eventual acquisition by the nation was the result of a prolonged campaign by art historians and politicians who recognised their significance. The portraits are more than works of art; they are historical documents, providing a visual record of the men who gathered at Christopher Cat's pie-shop and, through their combination of literary talent and political power, helped to create the modern world. Their uniform format, their shared provenance, and their collective purpose make them unique in English art — a group portrait painted not on a single canvas but across forty-two separate paintings, each one a fragment of a larger story that begins in a humble pie-shop on the road to Highgate.

The Club's Culture: Toasts, Verses, and Suppers

The Kit-Cat Club was not merely a political organisation or a literary society; it was a social institution, and the pleasures of the table were central to its culture. The club's suppers were celebrated for their conviviality, their good food — Cat's mutton pies being the signature dish — and their ritual of toasting, in which each member proposed a toast to a lady of his choice. The toasted ladies, known as the "Kit-Cat beauties," were the wives, daughters, and mistresses of the club's members, and the verses composed in their honour were among the most polished productions of Augustan wit. The toasting ritual served several purposes — it provided an opportunity for the display of verbal dexterity, it reinforced the social bonds between the members, and it created a body of occasional verse that circulated in manuscript and in print, publicising the club's existence and burnishing its reputation for elegance and wit.

The verses produced at the Kit-Cat suppers were typically short, pointed, and flattering — epigrams and drinking songs rather than sustained literary efforts. But they were composed by some of the finest writers of the age, and the best of them display a polish and a precision that belies their occasional nature. Congreve's toasts to the Duchess of Marlborough, Addison's verses on Lady Manchester, and Steele's compliments to various Kit-Cat beauties are minor gems of Augustan poetry, and they circulated widely in the literary culture of the period, appearing in miscellanies and periodicals and contributing to the club's reputation as a centre of civilised entertainment. The toasting ritual also produced one of the Kit-Cat Club's most famous anecdotes — the story of Lady Mary Wortley Montagu, who was toasted by the club at the age of eight, an honour that made her one of the youngest women ever to receive such public compliment and that she remembered with pleasure for the rest of her life.

The culture of the Kit-Cat Club — its combination of political seriousness and social pleasure, its blending of literary accomplishment and convivial hospitality — was in many ways the prototype for the club culture that would dominate English social life for the next two centuries. The gentlemen's clubs of St James's — White's, Brooks's, the Athenaeum — all owed something to the Kit-Cat model, even if they lacked the Kit-Cat Club's distinctive fusion of political purpose and literary distinction. The idea that important business could be conducted over dinner, that political alliances could be cemented by shared pleasures, and that the social bonds formed in a club could be as consequential as the formal structures of government — all of these ideas found their earliest and most complete expression in the Kit-Cat Club, and all of them can be traced back, ultimately, to a pie-shop on the road to Highgate where a group of ambitious men gathered to eat, drink, and change the world.

The Legacy of the Kit-Cat Club

The Kit-Cat Club disbanded sometime around 1720, its purpose fulfilled and its members either dead, retired, or absorbed into the formal structures of the Hanoverian government. The club had lasted barely a quarter of a century, but its influence on English politics and culture was out of all proportion to its brief existence. The Whig settlement that the Kit-Cat members had fought to establish would endure for a century, providing the framework for the growth of parliamentary democracy, religious toleration, and individual liberty that defined the English political tradition. The literary culture that the Kit-Cat members had fostered — the periodical essay, the comedy of manners, the culture of polite conversation — would shape English letters for generations, establishing standards of taste and style that persisted long after the Augustan age had given way to the Romantic and Victorian periods.

For Highgate, the Kit-Cat Club's legacy is both specific and symbolic. The specific legacy is the association of the village's neighbourhood with one of the most important institutions in English cultural history — an association that adds a layer of distinction to the already rich history of the Northern Heights. The symbolic legacy is the idea that great things can begin in humble places — that a mutton pie shop on the road to a hilltop village can be the birthplace of a political movement that reshapes a nation. This idea resonates with Highgate's own history, which is a story of modest beginnings and grand outcomes — a toll-gate settlement on a hilltop that became one of the most celebrated and desirable villages in England. The Kit-Cat Club and Highgate share a quality of improbable distinction, of significance that exceeds expectation, and it is fitting that their histories are intertwined.

The road from London to Highgate that Christopher Cat's customers travelled is now a busy urban highway, its pie-shops and coaching inns long since replaced by offices and apartment blocks. The fields through which the Kit-Cat members rode to their summer suppers have been built over, and the landscape that once separated the city from the village has been filled with the streets and houses of a metropolis that has swallowed its satellite villages whole. But the hill remains, and the village on its summit still looks down on London with the same air of amused detachment that it wore in the days of Queen Anne. The Kit-Cat Club may be long disbanded, its mutton pies long consumed, and its toasts long forgotten, but the tradition of conviviality, conversation, and cultural ambition that it embodied lives on in the pubs and dining rooms of Highgate, where the residents of N6 continue to gather, as their predecessors did three centuries ago, to eat, drink, and talk about the world.


*Published in the Hampstead Renovations Heritage Collection — exploring the architecture, history, and stories of London's most remarkable neighbourhoods.*